Just FIY - w/ these new handpumps, the spare dessicant does nt come included. Instead, we do offer you guys an upgraded gauge here (as opposed to the older one). It looks like the SHARP TIGER one, however, it is not made in Japan. It can be filled w/ glycerine however and has a rubber plug. Likewise, there is no in-line filter, but you guys can purchase it separately.
The feet are also improved - they are individually spring loaded and the rubber vulcanization around the feet do look done a bit better this time.
The shaft is also a silver colour this time, not the textured finish like we had previously.
Featuring our all new in-house branded 4500 PSI / 300 BAR handpump, at pre-lockdown price!
This product, we have to say, is excellent in that is provides alot of value for money, does not feature cheap coatings and comes out of the box w/ a slew of features that other pumps pricing in higher, do not feature. We are indeed quite excited to bring you this product. Please read on beneath;
---------
Opening this box, you'll receive this pump disassembled - the mainshaft assembled, the T-handle, gauge and hose are all separate.
As you assemble this product, you'll need the included multitool and admittably, this tool is no substitute for a proper (shifting) spanner and we do not necessarily recommend using this tool if you have access to proper tools. Please remember that all of the hex shaped nuts / fasteners are manufactured from brass and as such, are particularly vulnerable to cam-outing / stripping, if you use a spanner size too large. Please be patient in manipulating these fasteners, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN at any time, as this will bugger up the hexagonal shape and circle the fastener out.
As with all pneumatic applications - if you need to overtighten something or use thread / PTFE tape in conjunction w/ the correct O-ring, then it means that either your fault-finding / diagnosis of the problem is not correct and/or you are compensating otherwise which, while it may temporarily solve the issue, may create other issues, such as cross-threading on brass threads due to excessive PTFE tape or that same tape may constrict a transfer port.
---------
The handle itself hasreplaceable foam covers around them, which, unlike hard rubber, will not cause sweaty palms to mould to them, but, the foam instead will mould to your grasp, which is more ergonomical. However, due to this, the foam will evetually expire, especially also due to the corrosive nature of sweat, so we ship each pump out w/ an extra set of foam grips which can simply be slipped on.
Inside of the tube shape of the handles, you'll notice that there are dessicant tube inserts, retained by circlips - no plastic threading which can easily cross-thread or get grinded out. You'll notice that these tubes have a cheaper plastic housing, w/ slim pads at the inhale points that will blacken through after a few months as they inhale- and catch up, atmospheric impurities. These can very easily be swopped out w/ cotton buds etc.
As for the balls you see inside the plastic tubing - this is what the manufacturer refers to as "molecular sieve" and is intended to absorb moisture / humidity out of the air as the pump inhales. We would recommend covering the sides of the handles up if your pump is not in use, so as to avoid this molecular sieve absorbing moisture when not in use and thus, shortening its lifespan. With each pump, we also include a spare set of these tubes for replacement. Just be sure to use a proper circlip plier when taking the circlips out.
This T-handle itself installs tool-free by means of the integrated M9.7x40 galvinized screws. These are hollowed out, since they serve as the "throat" of the pump's inhale cycle. It is outside threaded, so it installs onto the mainshaft tool-free, instead of needing an allen key to install two machine screws as typical HPA pumps usually are configured. This is nice, as it allows you to disassemble your pump tool-free, with the exception of your guage, for easy storage and for commuting with.
---------
The mainshaft is partially magnetic, has a hammered texture w/ fine black denting on an otherwise grey metal backdrop. This outer shaft is machine-hammered carbon steel which increases its molecular density. It is likewise found on electrical enclosures, safes and security doors. As an interesting side-note, it isn't really magnetic, and we found this interesting explanation on the internet for it.
The interior shaft however, is manufactured from SAE 305 grade stainless steel which boasts heat-transfer properties, more than physical hardness, compared to its series 400 counterpart, which in turn, features for example, in old cutlery w/ the SHEFIELD, ENGLAND markings (SAE 420) and in alot of modern knives and multitools.
At the base of the shaft, is a brass 31mm (1 7/32) hex fastenter, which, if you were to move this mainshaft upward, would see the buffer tube O-ring preventing this brass from knocking the similarly sized one beneath it with each downward stroke of the pump shaft.
As you may realize by now - this pump is designed in terms of material composition, to allow heat to dissapate as fast as possible and as a catalyst for this, we recommend using the supplied silicone oil (2x little bottles are included) along the stainless steel seecond stage shaft (apply it and then rub it in with your hands, but please make sure that they are clean first, as moisture will take dirt or any residue on your hands, absorb it and eventually result in grime building up around the buffer O-ring
The upper one can only be unthreaded once the inhale non-return valve at the top is loosened out and removed. Therein should be a rubber ball - PLEASE DO NOT LOOSE IT.
Losing this ball will mean that backpressure will build up as you pump, causing your pump handle, when pulled up all the way, not to stay in place, but instead, to get sucked back down. Make sure to keep that ball lubricated and the hole it is inside, properly cleaned. There might be brass filings and such inside these small crevices, as the Chinese have to hurry when making these pumps and thus, do tend to overlook these small issues. We would otherwise love to strip and rebuild each pump individually for you guys, but unfortunately due to time constraints, we cannot.
----------
At the base of the pump, you'll find an angular M10x1 threaded blind hole, which is where the gauge threads into. Please note the hex drive underneath the guage - it corresponds to one of the hex spanner drives on the multitool with which the guage can be affixed with. Please do not use thread tape - there is a tube seal at the base of the hole, which will create an airtight seal. Try to thread the guage on so that, when you stand behind the pump, the guage' markings is legible upright to you. Please don't overtorque, as this will create deep seating marks on the seal and shorten its lifespan.
The guage itself is not liquid filled and while it is completely metal, it d...
