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Introduction. The diminutive Vivitar 7mm F/3.5 fisheye lens (Vivitar brand now discontinued as of 2012 but Rokinon etc is the same) is a special purpose lens, and is made for having fun, so go to the Sony 16mm fisheye review to learn more about how to use this lens, so I don't have to rehash the same material here. The Vivitar fisheye is made in "Korea" but no mention of either north or south, let's hope "south." It appears this lens is identical to the "Bower" brand that labels it 8mm instead of 7mm, that's a marketing trick to make people think it's a different lens. This fisheye may also be found labeled Rokinon, walimex, Falcon, Opteka, and Samyang. I'm told Samyang of South Korea is the original manufacturer. Th Vivitar 7mm fisheye was designed for an APS-C camera, and if mounted on a full frame camera will show a dark frame periphery with hard transition around the APS-C location marks in the viewfinder, so there is no sense in using it on a full frame camera, especially if you have the Sony 16mm F/2.8 fisheye, also reviewed here. On the outside of the lens is an aperture ring, manual focus ring and built-in hood. It has a bulbous front element, and as a consequence, will not accept filters, nor is there a gel slot in back. Build quality is actually very good, with a nice fit and finish. It has an appealing black spatter paint finish, but not like the ugly Sigma type. Vivitar claims the use of one aspherical element in the design of the lens. Size and weight wise, it's very close to the Sony 16mm F/2.8 fisheye lens. Use. Make sure you select "enable" for "release W/O lens" on your camera, otherwise, the camera thinks no lens has been mounted, and won't release the shutter. This is a manual lens only, meaning there is no communication with the camera, you must use manual focus, and choose an aperture. Don't worry though, it meters pretty good, although I'd use a priority mode, because I find you'll need to dial in some exposure compensation (usually +.5 to +1.0 stop) at small apertures. The best method for use would be to set the camera to manual focus, and the lens aperture to F/8-11, and simply set the correct exposure with exposure compensation. Check your LCD for best results. The aperture settings are marked in one stop increments except between F/3.5-5.6. There are no in-between stops, but you can carefully turn the ring and set it between marked stops, although I don't know why you'd want to do that. The viewfinder is very dark when the aperture is set smaller than F/8.
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