Main centres: | 1-3 business days |
Regional areas: | 3-4 business days |
Remote areas: | 3-5 business days |
Thickness and width at Mune-machi (the notch for the copper thing on top of the hand guard) 7.5, 32mm
Thickness and width at Yokote (the line where the edge angle changes, forming a tip) 6mm, 25mm
Blade length 710mm
Sori (curve) 16mm
This is a katana with folding pattern and temper line visible. It’s made in Longquan using modern technology hence much cheaper than a real Japanese swords. Unlike many modern replicas, it has a full tang instead of a tiny rod welded to the blade, not stainless steel, real sting-ray skin handle and comes properly sharpened (not the usual V-grind kitchen knife edge).
The sword is new and never been used. If you cut things with it the guarantee is void because bad cutting techniques can break or bent even the strongest swords
A word of warning here, I will not be held liable for any damages resulting from the use of the sword be it sword failure or plain human stupidity. This is not a toy.
Not for sale to persons under the age of 18.
FAQ:
Was the katana made in Japan?
No, not even the 5000 Rand ColdSteel katanas are made there. Only registered smiths are allowed to make swords in Japan and they are only allowed to make 2 swords a month each, using traditional methods only. A newly made Japanese katana bare blade will set you back at the very least $3000US
How do I sharpen a katana?
If it is one of those modern mass produced swords, go buy one of those v shaped ceramic sharpener, works well enough. Unlike a knife, V-grind, the katana blade gently tapers to form an edge so do not do it the normal stone way.
Can it chop thru iron/kitchen knife/lamp pole/glass bottle/water pipe/etc?
It is a sword, not a light saber! Even a katana has limits.
Why does my sword go dull?
Because it is not made from stainless steel, stainless has chromium in it and this makes the grain structure weak hence. Just light oil the blade.