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Yugoslavian Embroideries (2nd Series)

Th. De Dillmont

Published by Mulhouse (1972)

The second series of Yugoslavian Embroideries presents, distributed over 20 plates, 83 almost all polychrome models, the originals of which came from Bosnia, Herzegovina, Dalmatia and Montenegro. We have copied them in various museums or, in a few cases, among private persons. As we have pointed out in the preface to the first series, the motifs differ sometimes quite appreciably between one region and another. Upon the two banks of the river Save, they are nearly always worked in cross stitch (plate III) and stroke stitch, mostly in vivid red and black, occasionally in blue. In the western part of Bosnia, they are done either in counted stitches or else over traced patterns. The former (plates II, IV, V, X to XIII), although more finely designed and more vigourously shaded, possess a certain analogy with those of old Serbia. The latter, executed in transverse darning stitch, are accentuated by a stroke-stitch setting, such as is seen on plate VIII. In Herzegovina, cross stitch stroke stitch, slanting Slav stitch (plates XIV to XVII) and ? in embroideries over tracings ? transversedarnina stitch flat stitch, straight stitch and stroke stitch (plate IX) predominate. Dalmatian works reveal by their desiqns theinfluence of the ancient Italian style, especiallyin the big, white shawls (plates VII, mods. 61 and 62, XVIII to XX) which are embroidered in cross stitch or straight stitch, combined with stroke stitch. They are generally outlined by a border ofl stroke stitch and square stitch on red material (plate XVIII) and finished by a pillow lace with fringe in several colors. The dark coloured decorations which complete the women's chemises (plate VI, mods. 53-55 ?and 57-60) stand out by reason of their elegant forms. Likewise, the narrow embroideries with which the women of Montenegro used to adorn their chemises were composed of very delicate motifs (plate I).

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